There is no city on Earth quite like Varanasi. One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in human history — older than Rome, older than Athens — it sits on the banks of the Ganges in northern India and serves as the spiritual heart of Hinduism. For Hindus, to die here and be cremated on the riverbank is to achieve moksha, liberation from the cycle of rebirth. For travellers, Varanasi offers one of the most intense, overwhelming and ultimately transformative experiences in all of travel.
It is also a city that demands respect and a degree of preparation. The intensity that makes Varanasi extraordinary can also make it overwhelming, and the religious significance of what you'll witness requires a thoughtful, sensitive approach. This is not a destination to be ticked off; it's one to be experienced with humility. Here's how.
The Ghats: Where Life and Death Meet the River
Varanasi's life unfolds along its ghats — the stone steps leading down to the Ganges. There are around 88 of them, each with its own character and purpose. Some are for bathing — pilgrims descend at dawn to immerse themselves in the sacred (if heavily polluted) waters. Others, most notably Manikarnika and Harishchandra, are cremation ghats, where bodies burn around the clock in open-air funeral pyres.
Witnessing the cremations is, for many visitors, the most profound experience of their entire travels — a confrontation with mortality conducted entirely in the open, treated not as taboo but as a natural, even celebratory passage. It must be approached with the utmost respect: no photography of the pyres, no intrusion, and ideally the guidance of a respectful local who can explain what you're seeing.
How Old Is Varanasi?
Varanasi (also called Banaras or Kashi) is widely considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a documented history stretching back well over 3,000 years — and a mythological one stretching far further. Mark Twain wrote that it was "older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend."
The Ganga Aarti: A Ceremony of Fire
Each evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a spectacular ceremony unfolds: the Ganga Aarti, a ritual of fire, incense, bells and chanting performed by young priests to honour the river goddess. Crowds gather on the steps and in boats on the water to watch the choreographed offering of flame to the Ganges. It's hypnotic and genuinely moving — one of the great spectacles of the subcontinent. Arrive early to claim a spot, or hire a boat for a view from the water.
Dawn on the River
If you do one thing in Varanasi, take a rowing boat on the Ganges at dawn. As the sun rises over the river, the ghats come alive — pilgrims bathing, performing yoga, washing clothes, offering flowers to the water — and the soft morning light transforms the whole scene into something almost unreal. Drifting silently past this ancient tableau of devotion is an experience that stays with travellers for life.
Varanasi overwhelms every sense at once. It is chaotic, intense, occasionally distressing and utterly unforgettable. No one leaves unchanged.
Sarnath: Where the Buddha First Taught
Just outside Varanasi lies Sarnath, one of the four holiest sites in Buddhism — the place where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The contrast with the intensity of Varanasi proper is striking: Sarnath is peaceful, green and contemplative, with ancient stupas, a deer park and an excellent archaeological museum. It makes a perfect half-day escape from the sensory overload of the ghats.
Practical Wisdom for Varanasi
The old city is a labyrinth of impossibly narrow lanes (galis) where getting lost is inevitable and part of the experience — though it can be intense, with cows, motorbikes, pilgrims and touts all competing for the same space. Wear comfortable shoes you don't mind getting dirty. Dress modestly out of respect. Be firm but polite with the persistent boat touts and "guides." And manage your expectations about the river itself — the Ganges is sacred but also severely polluted, so admire it, photograph it, but don't be tempted to swim.
When to Visit
The cool, dry season from October to March is by far the most comfortable, with pleasant days and cool nights. The festival of Dev Deepawali (in November) sees the ghats illuminated by hundreds of thousands of oil lamps — extraordinary, but extremely crowded. Avoid the brutal heat of April-June and the monsoon flooding of July-September, when the lower ghats can disappear entirely underwater.
Plan Your Varanasi Trip
Our complete guide covers the ghats, the ceremonies, Sarnath and how to visit respectfully.
Read the Full Varanasi Guide →A Final Word
Varanasi is not an easy destination, and it isn't for everyone. It will challenge you — physically, emotionally, spiritually. But for travellers willing to meet it with openness and respect, it offers something almost no other place can: a raw, unfiltered encounter with the largest questions of human existence, played out on a riverbank that has witnessed them for three thousand years.
The Silk Industry and the Art of the City
Beyond its spiritual significance, Varanasi is one of the oldest centres of weaving in the world. Banarasi silk saris — woven with gold and silver brocade threads in intricate patterns — are among the most prized textiles in India, worn by brides and considered heirloom pieces passed through generations. Visiting a weaving workshop to see the painstaking process of creating these fabrics is one of the most rewarding cultural experiences in the city. The lanes of the old town are dotted with silk shops, from grand showrooms to tiny family enterprises.
Varanasi has also been a centre of classical music and learning for centuries. The city claims a distinguished tradition in the Hindustani style of North Indian classical music, and impromptu performances along the ghats in the evening are not uncommon. The city's ancient university, Banaras Hindu University (BHU), founded in 1916, houses a remarkable art gallery. And the food — the street chaat (savoury snacks), the lassi, the seasonal sweets — adds yet another layer to a city that is simultaneously ancient and intensely alive. Every visit to Varanasi reveals new depths; one trip is never enough.